FLORENCE JEWELLERY WEEK

The Florentine week dedicated to the fascinating microcosm of contemporary jewellery will be held in spring, from 28th April to 2nd May, and will be distinguished this year by the rich calendar of events scheduled, among exhibitions, conferences, workshops and live demonstrations, disseminated in different locations in the city center and the Oltrarno, including institutional spaces and galleries.
Heart of Florentine craftsmanship, the Oltrarno is in fact the home of Le Arti Orafe, the prestigious jewellery academy founded in 1985 by Giò Carbone, author of this exceptional event, the first in Italy since 2015.
 
The project was created in 2005 in a quite different format, known as “PREZIOSA”, a biennial exhibition that over time has given visibility to the most important protagonists of contemporary jewellery, from the “fathers” of the 70s of the last century, up to our days, and therefore offering the public different interpretative keys to understand the new instances of this specific growing sector.
 
This year, the curatorship of the entire event is entrusted to the duo Giò Carbone and Alice Rendon, who together have built a complex program dedicated to telling jewellery in its various forms and applications, contemplating artistic research, craftsmanship, new technologies, and sustainability.
 
 
Exhibitions
The epicenter of the event will be the main exhibition, PREZIOSA, hosted in the evocative setting of the Galleria delle Carrozze of Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
The nine invited artists are all established and award-winning personalities of the international art scene: Lauren Kalman, Anya Kivarkis, Rein Vollenga, Sam Tho Duong, Jayne Wallace, Kazumi Nagano, Conversation Piece (Beatrice Brovia & Nicolas Cheng), Ana Rajcevic and Barbara Paganin.
 
One of the main objectives of FJW2022 is to understand, through the work of these authors, how the horizons of contemporary jewellery are redefining, a field that is now facing the progressive disintegration of obsolete categorizations, opening up to the fusion of expressive languages and the intersection of artistic practices.
 
In the exhibition not only jewels, but also wearable sculptures, able to deeply transform their wearer, advancing a concept of “decoration” that comes to redesign the bodies, hybrid and contaminated, reshaping both outward appearance and identity.
Another key theme is the dematerialization of the object in the digital age, based on the image culture and conveyed by new technologies, also capable, on the other hand, of offering new possibilities of connection, with the creation of multimedia jewels.
A current issue that concerns the contemporary production of ornaments is the practice of upcycling, or creative recycling, which gives new prestige to leftover materials whose destination is renewed and whose preciousness is the result of the craftsman’s skill.
Technical and intellectual wisdom is reflected not only in the work of the goldsmiths and designers represented in the main exhibition, but also more generally connects the various projects presented during the event.
 
Near Palazzo Medici Riccardi, in the halls of Palazzo del Pegaso, a huge selection of the largest private collection of contemporary jewellery existing, belonging to the Austrian couple Karl and Heidi Bollmann, will be exhibited. For the occasion, they will provide several pieces made by some of the major protagonists of the “New Jewelry”: Manfred Bischoff, Peter Chang, Yasuki Hiramatsu, Fritz Maierhofer, Bruno Martinazzi, Francesco Pavan, Ruudt Peters, Gerd Rothmann, Peter Skubic.
 
In the last room of Palazzo del Pegaso, the guest of excellence of FJW 2022, namely the extraordinary headpiece by the master Giovanni Corvaja, woven in the noblest metal and part of the prestigious series of the Golden Fleece.
 
The exhibition PREZIOSA YOUNG, hosted in the very elegant Galleria del Palazzo Coveri on Lungarno Guicciardini, will feature the five winners of the tenth edition of this competition, imagined by LAO with the aim of promoting new talents in jewellery research.
 
The PREZIOSA MAKERS section, set up from 28th April to 1st May in the former Stables of Palazzo Corsini al Prato and organized in collaboration with ARTIGIANATO E PALAZZO, will offer for the first time a space for sale to designers and goldsmiths who apply within the deadline, submitting jewels that must stand out for innovation and originality.

5-STAR JEWELLERY TOUR. Eight of the most prestigious 5-star hotels in Florence will host pieces by some of the artists featured in the main exhibitions of the event, namely PREZIOSA, PREZIOSA YOUNG, Collezione Bollmann: Dimora Palanca, Lungarno, Regency, Savoy, The Place, The Westin Excelsior, Villa Cora, Ville sull’Arno

MIDA in the prestigious Polveriera area (Fortezza da Basso – V.le Filippo Strozzi, 1). Works by former and present students and lecturers will be presented, but above all there will be appointments for short seminars and demonstrations open to all and free of charge. The central part of the exhibition will host a selection of contemporary jewels from the LAO collection, with references and information on the FJW 2022 program

 
Fratelli Piccini boutique. Themed showcases with the presentation of the “BLOOM” collection, dedicated to rebirth.
Open visits to the Boutique and the laboratory.
Reservations on 055 294768.
On the 29th at 5.00 pm, meeting with the creative director Elisa Tozzi Piccini, who will show guests some jewels of particular artistic and artisan interest, in addition to the Bloom collection.A toast will follow to celebrate this meeting opportunity.

Unusual Artisanal Florence

A tour between Florentine artisan excellences Each visit will last about 20 minutes; during this time every artisan will show their works to explain everybody the special technics they use. The itinerary will end on one of the most wonderful panoramic terrace of Florence.
The excellences are: Dini Caffè srl (Artisan coffee roasting), Moleria Locchi srl (glass and crystal craftmanship), Julia Markert (frames-gilding-restoring antique Italian frame collection), Pestelli Creazioni (goldsmith), Le pietre nell’Arte di Scalpelli Renzo e C. snc (semiprecious stones manufacture), Penko Bottega Orafa (goldsmith), Hotel Medici.
 

Lectures
On the central days of the event, 30th April and 1st May, inside the Foresteria Valdese di Firenze in Via dei Serragli 49, there will be a series of speeches given by experts in jewellery, design and visual arts, namely Roberta Bernabei, Maria Laura La Mantia, Paola Stroppiana, Federica Fontana, Carla Riccoboni, Barbara Schmidt, Nantia Koulidou, and by some of the invited artists: Conversation Piece, Lauren Kalman, Ana Rajcevic, Anya Kivarkis, and Jayne Wallace.
 
This cycle of conferences will be an opportunity to deepen the themes examined and to describe some of the projects exhibited, as well as offering a wide audience the opportunity to approach and learn about a complex reality in expansion.
BOOK THE LECTURES HERE
Find out more about FJW2022 on www.preziosa.org.

DOWNLOAD THE PROGRAM IN PDF

Xinia Guan
Giovanni Corvaja
Sam Tho Duong
Bollmann Collection, Pavan brooch
Ana Rajcevic
Lauren Kalman

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FJW – MAP

Florence Jewellery Week Events Venues and Craftmen’s workshop. Download the map

Opening 32° academic year

Last Monday, October 9th, LAO inaugurated its 32nd school year. This was the occasion to welcome back our second- and third-year students and greeted

Flash Courses

These are ultra-short courses, ranging from 1 to 5 days in duration. The content is technical and practical, involving a demonstration phase by the instructor followed by hands-on exercises for students. 

All flash courses are taught by LAO’s faculty and instructors.

CAD Flash courses. Teacher Jasmina Carbone
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
Introduction to Rhino3D for Goldsmithing - Online coursesCAD.WE116 hours - 8 lessonsCourses will start when 5 participants are reached€ 400Enroll
Introduction to Rhino3D for Goldsmithing - Evening or daytime courseCAD.SE116 hours - 8 lessonsCourses will start when 5 participants are reached€ 400Enroll
ZBrush Flash course. Teacher Anna Lia Cimini
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
3D modeling with ZBrushZBR.WE24 hours 6 daysThe lessons will take place on the following days: May 3rd, 4th, 10th, 11th, 17th, and 18th15 April€ 800Basic competences on goldsmithing or jewellery design; proficiency in PC usageEnroll
JEWELLERY DESIGN Flash courses. Teachers Sofia Garuti* – Giulio Vinci
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
Ink pen sketches and renderingsRE.215 hours 5 days1 - 5 July30 June€ 400Enroll
Rendering with markers and watercolor pencilsRE.315 hours 5 days8 - 12 July30 June€ 400Enroll
Digital renderingRE.415 hours 5 days15 - 19 July30 June€ 400Enroll
Rendering surfaces*RE.112 hours 3 daysCourses will start when 5 participants are reached€ 300Enroll
STONE SETTING Flash courses. Instructor Francesco Pinzauti
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
Stone setting with griffe (Solitaire or o trilogy)INPR1.F12 Hours 2 Days16 and 17
September
31 August€ 300Enroll
Stone setting on bezelINBS.F12 Hours 2 Days18 and 19 September31 August€ 300Enroll
Flush settingINSG.F8 Hours 1 Day20 September31 August€ 200Basic competences of stone setting techniquesEnroll
Channel settingINBI.F8 Hours 1 Day23 September31 August€ 200Basic competences of stone setting techniquesEnroll
Bead settingINSGR.F8 Hours 1 Day24 September31 August€ 200Basic competences of stone setting techniquesEnroll
HAND ENGRAVING ON JEWELLERY Flash courses.
Instructors Victoria Efremova* - Filippo Vinattieri
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
Introduction to engraving on jew- elleryENJF.112 Hours 2 Days18 e 19 September31 August€ 300Enroll
Background, granite, and silk on jewelleryENJF.28 Hours 1 Days20 September31 August€ 200ENJF.1 or equivalentEnroll
Cursive writing on metal plate *ENJF.318 Hours 3 Days23, 24, 25 September31 August€ 450ENJF.1 or equivalentEnroll
Segnatura*EN.112 Hours 2 DaysCourses will start when 5 participants are reached€ 300Enroll
Engraved texture*EN.224 Hours 4 DaysCourses will start when 5 participants are reached€ 600Enroll
ENAMELING Flash courses. Instructors Barbara Minor* - Jennifer Wells** - Sachiko Chino
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesEnrolment
Transparent enamels with silver and gold foils on copper*SMAF.18 Hours 2 Days9-10 May20 April€ 400Enroll
Liquid enamels**SMAF.218 Hours 3 Days9, 10 e 11 September31 July€ 600Enroll
Fire enamels, wet enamel, dry enamel, champlevéSMA.WE8 Hours 2 Days19 e 20 September31 August€ 250Enroll
STRINGING PEARLS Flash course. Teacher Maria Laura La Mantia
Title/ContentsCourse codeDurationScheduleDeadlineTuition FeesRequirements of admissionEnrolment
Stringing pearlsPEARL16 Hours 2 Days9 and 10 September15 August€ 500Enroll
Notes FLASH Courses***

CAD.WE1 Introduction to Rhino3D for Goldsmithing. Online Course 

This course focuses on creating rings and pendants from non-complex shapes using a range of commands, including creating and  modifying curves, moving, rotating, scaling, copying, and subdividing shapes, using the 1-track sweep technique and utilizing  control points. 

CAD.SE1 Introduction to Rhino3D for Goldsmithing. Evening or daily course 

This course focuses on creating rings and pendants from non-complex shapes using a range of commands, including creating and  modifying curves, moving, rotating, scaling, copying, and subdividing shapes, using the 1-track sweep technique and utilizing  control points. 

ZBR.WE 3D modelling with ZBrush 

First approach to sculptural modelling using ZBrush, a computer graphics program that combines modelling, texturing and painting in 3D and 2.5D. ZBrush uses technology that stores information about the lighting, colour, material and intensity of all displayed  objects. In this introductory course open to all, the student will be guided to the creation of a form with which he or she will build a  ring and a bracelet. 

RE.1 Diamond colouring 

Watercolour rendering of brilliant diamond cut. 

RE.2 Ink pen sketches and renderings 

In this workshop fast representation techniques are applied with the use of ink pens. Starting from different representation techniques  for flat surfaces, curved, cylindrical and conical surfaces, we move on to representation of cabochons and faceted gemstones, pave,  pearls and other materials. The aim of the workshop is to give the student the tools and methods to realize monochromatic jewellery  drawings through fast chiaroscuro” ink pen techniques that will give an immediate visual impact. 

RE.3 Rendering with markers and watercolor pencils. 

In this workshop representation techniques using alcohol and water-based markers and watercolor pencils are covered and  employed. Starting from different representation techniques of flat, curved, cylindrical and conical surfaces, both polished and satin finished, of precious metals. Then we move on to drawing of precious stones: cabochons and faceted stones,  

semi-precious stones, pearls, corals and other materials. The aim of the workshop is to provide the student with the tools and  methods to realize jewellery renderings through the use of fast but visually striking representation  

RE.4 Digital rendering with photoshop, illustrator and procreate.  

In this workshop, digital representation techniques using Photoshop and Illustrator software, and the Procreate application are illus trated and employed. As usual, we start with representation techniques of flat, curved, cylindrical and conical surfaces, both polished  and satin-finished, of precious metals. Then we move on to digital representation of precious stones: cabochons and faceted stones,  semiprecious stones, pearls, corals, pavés of diamonds. The advantages of digital rendering and the possibility of modifying the design  and adapting it to different requirements in a very short time are high lighted. The aim of the workshop is to train the student with the  tools to realize renderings through the use of digital jewels illustrations and painting, which is highly fast, dynamic and expressive.  

EN.1 Segnatura  

Exercises on metal sheet and introduction to the art of segnatura. Drawing, writing with marks, and delineating geomet ric shapes on a metal sheet. 

EN.2 Engraved texture 

The course aims to teach drawing and engraving with a burin to create different textures and patterns. Starting with basic graphic ele ments like simple lines, participants will learn how to create more complex motifs, up to ornaments and abstract compositions. They will  also learn how to imitate natural surfaces, studying the structures to create effects such as bark or wood, animal skin patterns, or stone  surfaces. 

ENJF.1 Introduction to engraving on jewellery 

After learning the burin preparation technique and becoming familiar with the tools, participants will start engraving on  copper sheets and silver rings. 

ENJF.2 Background, granite, and silk on jewellery 

Engravings on a silver leaf, using backgrounds, granite, silk, and engraving veins to enhance the natural effect. Granite is used to create a  homogeneous background that contrasts with subsequent shiny engravings, enhancing them

ENJF.3 Cursive writing on metal plate  

The objective of the course is to teach the engraving of names in English cursive on flat plates. This course is beneficial for both goldsmiths  and engravers. It can be used to sign one’s own work by using a metal plate, ‘write’ names, initials, and dates with a graver, etc.  

INPR1.F Setting with prongs (solitaire or trilogy)  

The prong setting is the most commonly used for solitaire and trilogy rings, and it enhances the beauty of the stone. Participants will learn  how to set brilliant-cut round stones on silver rings and other semi-finished products. 

INBS.F Setting with different-shaped settings 

The stone is set in the previously prepared seat (setting). The metal collar is fixed on the stone with a chisel or a hammer. For the exercis es, semi-finished products with settings of various shapes will be used, and participants will learn how to set faceted stones of different  cuts (round, square or princess) and round cabochon-cut stones. 

INSG.F Flush setting 

The technique of flush setting, in which the stones are not covered by the metal at all, makes the stones appear larger than they actually  are. This type of setting is particularly suitable for small round stones, and is often used for “light points” and in tennis bracelets. During  the course, exercises will be carried out on silver or bronze plates and semi-finished products. 

INBI.F Channel setting 

Channel setting is one of the most common types of setting: this type of mounting gives beauty to stones arranged in a row next to each  other. It is a type of setting suitable for not large stones, usually all of the same size. The most used cuts for this type of setting are square  and baguette, but excellent results are also obtained with round stones. 

INSGR.F Bead setting 

This technique partly recalls the prong setting, but the use of special mills and gravers makes it very different in realization and suitable  for objects to be produced in series or simple on unique objects. The setter obtains small prongs by cutting the base metal and shaping the  metal blocks according to their own taste. 

SMAF.1 Transparent enamels with silver and gold foils 

The course will demonstrate how to achieve bright and beautiful colours directly on copper using sifted transparent enamel powders in  combination with sheets of silver and gold on flat or gently formed copper surfaces. Participants will explore methods to enhance depth,  complexity, details, and maximum transparency, gaining essential information and skills for transparent enamelling and achieving a wide  range of colours

SMAF.2 Liquid enamel  

Students will be guided through exercises that teach them how to understand the material and how it will respond to certain situations.  The students will then be asked to begin layering techniques and application methods associated with liquid enamels, pushing the bound aries of what they are learning. Alternative materials will be incorporated into the enamel and firing process. The enamels will be kiln and  also torch fired ( this depends if we may bring one torch into the studio), offering more variation to the surface of the enamel. Exploring the  possibilities students will be expected to present a collection of their research as demonstration through several pieces with appropriate  documentation of their processes. Advanced students will also be asked to develop one process into a completed piece that may be wear 

able or sculptural. 

SMA.WE Fire enamels, wet enamel, dry enamel, champlevé. 

The course aims to provide the student with the knowledge of the main techniques of fire enamel applied to metal and in particular on jew ellery objects. Practical lessons and exercises. Dry enamel, wet enamel and champlevè.

PEARL Stringing pearls 

The course involves the creation of a pearl necklace from start to finish. Participants will learn the fundamental basics of threading and  how to use the necessary materials for this art. The course is aimed at those who, for creative, commercial, and hobbyist purposes, want  to learn this technique